Right outside the San Lorenzo Maggiore is the Via San Gregorio Armeno a quaint street that has gained notoriety as the ‘Christmas Street.’ The shops lining this alley are overflowing with artistic takes of the traditional italian nativity. Even today, the setting of a presipio is more important in Napoli Culture than a christmas tree.
Much emphasis is based on providing a thorough and comprehensive Nativity Scene that not only presents Christ in his manger along with his doting parents and the wise men, but also illustrate the everyday life of the population. Scenes include the preparation of a meal, a bartender at work, or even a craftsman honing their art.
It then took me a few wrong turns to locate the Capella San Severo a building dating from 1590 when a private chapel was built for John Francesco di Sangro, Duke of Torremaggiore after recovering from a serious illness. It houses a large collection of sculptures that were crafted by some of the leading Italian artists of the 18th century.
Although there are three emblematic structures that express the emphasis of decorating in the late-Baroque style, two particularly caught my eye. They are composed of a marble-like substance developed, partially or solely, by Raimondo. In the words of the all-knowing Wikipedia:
“The Veiled Truth (Pudizia, also called Modesty or Chastity) was completed by Antonio Corradini in 1750 as a tomb monument dedicated to Cecilia Gaetani dell’Aquila d’Aragona, mother of Raimondo. A Christ Veiled under a Shroud (also called Veiled Christ), shows the influence of the veiled Modesty, and was completed in 1753 by Giuseppe Sanmartino (1720-1793).”
At this point, my lunch was much overdue, and I stopped for some traditional Napoli Pizza. It is in this city after all, where this classic italian flat bread was invented.
The Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana maintains strict guidelines concerning what can be characterized as “Genuine Neapolitan Pizza Dough.”Ingredients are as follows: wheat flour (type 0 or 00, or a mixture of both), natural Neapolitan yeast or brewer’s yeast, salt and water.”
After a thoroughly satisfying eating experience, I took a leisurely stroll down Via Toledo, enjoying some spectacular views of some eye-catching architecture. I spent the last few hours of my day strolling along the port, pausing to explore the three castles that dominate the Napoli coast (Castel Nuovo, Palazzo Reale, & Castel Sant’Elmo), and hike up a hill.